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Ube Halaya or Rasavalli Kizhangu Kali

This halva-like confection is made by cooking down purple yam in coconut milk, flavored and colored by the vibrant yam itself. Halaya is a classic Filippino treat, used in halo halo, ice creams, and chiffon cakes--but it bears striking similarity to a "pudding" Sri Lankan Tamils make. This recipe thus cuts across time, region, and culture.

Ingredients
  

  • ½ kg or about 1lb of ube or purple yam, rasavalli kizhangu
  • ½ cup unsalted butter
  • 2 cups of thick freshly extracted coconut milk (or 1 13oz can)
  • 2 cups or 1 large can of condensed milk
  • 2 cups evaporated milk or 1 13 oz can, or boil 1 litre of fresh milk down to about half the volume and use that instead
  • 1 cup of sugar
  • A few drops of ube essence, if you have it
  • A few drops of ube coloring, if you must
  • A handful of assorted nuts, cranberries, raisins (optional—traditional for halvas, not for halayas)

Instructions
 

Prepare the Ube

  • Oil your hands well with coconut oil before handling the ube/rasavalli kizhangu. Yam skins contain oxalates and/or saponins which cause contact dermatitis: they make your hands unbearably itchy. Keep some aloe on hand, just in case.
  • Depending on how purple your purple yam is, you may find most of its color residing just barely under the skin. So scrape that off with a knife (not a peeler) to retain as much of the natural color for the halaya.
  • Either chop or grate the ube and set aside.

Prepare the halaya

  • Prepare moulds by greasing them lightly with coconut milk or butter. If you’re not using moulds, then just have a serving dish ready.
  • In a large, heavy-bottomed pan and on low-medium heat, melt the butter and let this sizzle for some minutes as though you’re making ghee.
  • Once this is fragrant and maybe a little nutty like brown butter, add the ube. Mix well.
  • Follow soon after with the coconut milk. Add this in batches, mixing well to incorporate each time.
  • Keep stirring as this thickens very fast.
  • Once the ube softens, you have two choices. You can transfer the whole mixture to a blender and whizz until very smooth, or you can keep cooking as-is and leave the halaya a bit more textured. Most modern halaya will be smooth-textured, so that’s the process I’ve followed.
  • Now pour the puree back into the cooking pan, back on low-medium heat.
  • Add in the sugar and the condensed milk, if using.
  • Now roll up your sleeves and continue mixing as the mixture thickens. Do not leave the halaya unattended. Ube is a heavy yam, so the mixture will catch and burn easily and it takes strength to keep it moving. Use a metal spatula that allows you to scrape down the bottom and sides of the pan easily.
  • Cook this mixture down until you start to see the fats from the coconut milk and butter release from the sides.
  • Add the ube flavor and coloring, if using.
  • Turn off the heat and transfer to moulds.
  • Toast the nuts and raisins in a little oil or butter, if using to garnish.
  • This halaya is best served warm. It keeps well, refrigerated, for several weeks. Reheat gently to serve.

Notes

  • The ingredients listed above are those used to make ube halaya today. This halva like preparation is very forgiving. A little more or less of any of the ingredients will vary the final product, but not by too much.
  • Make a chunkier and more textured halaya by chopping the ube and mashing as you cook it down in coconut milk
  • Go vegan—use only coconut milk and sugar to make this halaya in the old styles. Use coconut oil in place of butter.
  • Skip the condensed milk entirely and replace with more thick coconut milk and sugar—or 1 additional litre of thickened milk or cream
  • Use dayap if you have access (or some other equally flavorful lemon like the Meyer) to impart a more uniquely Filippino taste.
  • Sprinkle in a 1 teaspoon of roasted, powdered ulundu/urad dal to give it a more distinctly Tamil fragrance.
  • Leave the pudding runnier and serve it in a bowl, or cook it down further and set it in moulds in the spirit of the old jaleas or just like a good warm halva with cold ice cream
  • Use the halaya as an ingredient in other recipes, such as the ube chiffon cake, ice cream, or to assemble halo halo