{For Aditi}
This is a post about a cake that came from what was around, and what was around was an orange.
Years ago, when I had to look down rather than up to find my children’s faces, we used to read a picture book called The Perfect Orange. The story is Ethiopian. It tells of a girl who travels long ways to present the Great Negus with a single, perfect orange. On her way, she encounters a Hyena who mocks her mission with his high-pitched, reverberating laugh. For what would the Great Negus want such an insignificant gift? Pointless, child, turn back. But the girl seeks nothing more than to convey perfection to the Negus, so she continues on her way.
The girl is received with all the graciousness of the Negus’ court, and when she journeys home it is on a mule with with gold-filled saddlebags she doesn’t know are there. But the Hyena notices, agape. And he makes his own calculations now, following to the Negus’ court with gifts of land and property–gifts of far more consequence than a lone orange.
The Negus receives him with equal graciousness, and meets the Hyena’s generosity in equal measure by returning to him what is now undeniably the kingdom’s most prized possession: a single, perfect orange.
So we learned, at our bedtimes, that an orange is not just an orange, but the equivalence of all the landscapes within. And if it were the only thing around, then that was the vast promise of its perfection.
Then we found that the Sicilians had come to this realization, too, perhaps hundreds of years prior, in the midst of all those dreamy Mediterranean orange groves.
And we made our perfect orange a cake.
The recipe calls for a whole orange, so you want to use an organic one if you can–or soak and scrub your orange really well. You won’t taste or mind the slight orange bitterness, believe me. Do remove the seeds though, and when you blend, don’t make a mash out of the puree, but have it look slightly coarse, as below:
Remember not to overmix your batter, too, and to wait until the cake top is a beautiful orange-gold-brown to go in with a tester and make sure the insides are done.
We topped our cake with a fennel brittle, but it wasn’t a super-hit so I’ve left it out of this recipe. If you’re inclined to try something similar though, you might want to toast 1 tablespoon of fennel seeds with an equivalent amount of sugar until the sugar melts and coats the fennel. Crush lightly, add some chopped pistachios, and a bit of orange zest–to sprinkle over your finished and dressed cake. Or, just chop up some candied orange peel and use that tossed with pistachios instead.
The boy I have to crane my neck to see preferred the cake with just a dusting of powdered sugar. So you see in the pictures that I’ve done my slices both ways, for all tastes. Perfect, any way you please.
Sicilian Whole Orange Cake with Hung Yogurt Frosting
Ingredients
For the Hung Yogurt (prepare 6-8 hours ahead):
- 2 cups fresh, full-fat yogurt
- 1/2 cup confectioners sugar (or regular sugar powdered in a blender)
- 1 tsp vanilla essence
For the cake
- 1 large orange, with the rind but cut and the seeds removed
- 3 eggs
- 1 1/4 cups sugar
- 1 3/4 cups whole wheat or all purpose flour
- 1/4 tsp baking soda
- 2 1/2 tsp baking powder
- 1/4 tsp salt
- 1/3 cup butter, softened (about 100g)
- 1/3 cup yogurt
Instructions
For the hung yogurt:
- You’ll want to prep your yogurt about 6-8 hours before you’re ready to make your cake — the night before, or the morning of the dinner party.Place the yogurt in a strainer lined with cheesecloth; set this over a bowl in your refrigerator to hang ideally overnight, or about 6-8 hours. Yogurt should be thick and approximately 1/3 its original volume when ready. You could use Greek yogurt as a substitute, in which case you can skip this step.
For the Cake:
- Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C)Grease and flour an 9″ pan lined with parchment paper. Puree the pieces of the whole orange just for a couple of pulses, until you have a coarse mixture. Don’t over-puree!Then beat eggs and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer until light and fluffy.Sift the flour with the baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add this to the mixture in the bowl a little at a time along with the softened butter. Mix just until blended, and then stir in the yogurt–followed by the whole orange puree. Bake for 50-60 minutes or until a cake tester comes out clean. The top of the cake should be a nice golden color. Run a knife around the sides to loosen from the cake pan. Allow to cool for about 15 minutes, then invert onto a cake rack and peel off the parchment and allow to cool completely.
For the Frosting:
- Beat the thickened hung yogurt together with the confectioner’s sugar, tasting for your desired sweetness. Frost the cake when it’s completely cooled. Surprisingly, hung yogurt stays just-so for a few days after frosting, and doesn’t seem to get too much tarter with time. You’ll want to consume your cake within 2-3 days, though, assuming it lasts that long…
[…] a tip of the hat to Roden, and to celebrate this cake’s key ingredient much as my last Sicilian Whole Orange Cake post did, here’s a riddle that Roden does record in her New Book of Middle Eastern […]
Hi! This Sicilian cake is awesome. Now I know what surprise i’ll make for the upcoming weekend 🙂 Thank you for the recipe.